The fitted Underbodice.
Using the original pattern from the book, I added about an inch all round just to get a start on enlarging, then made a toile using scrap cotton.
Trying the toile on Doris the dummy. Well that's too small! At this stage I only had access to a poorly made victorian corset, bu better than nothing at all.
The toile fits at the back, but is way too small at the side. The front is actually ok, as it is supposed to be on a drawstring.
This is too large a gap to fill with piece expansion in the time I have available, so I decide to add an extra piece.
Once I'm happyish with the fit, the pieces can be cut out in the "lining weight" fabric, and made up.
The extra again edges are seam allowance.
I bound the whole lot with ribbon, but the ribbon was far too thick for this really, as it was gathered, so became a bit of a compromise. I eventually cut the back down as the shape didn't come out quite right when it was fitted to the next layer up. If I make this again I would use binding of the same fabri as the bodice.
This ended up being the section I was least happy with. The fabric was too light, and I ended up taking out nearly all of the extra panel, and returning to the original pattern. Eagle eyed observers may notice what has changed and why the fit changed....
The moral of this is that rushing fitted pieces is the road to stress! It needs to be snug, which I acheived eventually in final fitting, after adding a Petersham waist tape to support everything, (no pic).
Ah yes, boning. This dress would have had whalebone, not steel, so I went for the quick modern replica... cable ties!
Cut them, sand the edges round and smooth, voila!
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